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October 1988
Autumn in Europe & Spring in Australia Saturday 1st October Sunday 2nd October POSTCARD 1: ATHENS – 'Façade of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus'
[Written 2nd October] This is more or less the first sight remembered on arrival here after seemingly an endless sea of ugly flats. Athens 4 million inhabitants (Greece only 8.5 million!!!) have to endure the third most appalling pollution in Europe ( No.1 and No.2 were Milan and Sarajevo, Barcelona a close No.4). The Acropolis is nevertheless the most moving and glorious sight, worth all the rudeness encountered in this rudest of all European cities. Until French and Venetian rule ended and the Turks took over, it was perfectly preserved – the Turks blew it up!!!
POSTCARD 2: ATHENS – 'Acropolis'
[Written 2nd October] View from a hill to the south of the Acropolis. We went here on our first day with an excellent guide who clearly loved everything she showed us – that makes a big difference!!! It is incredibly beautiful isn’t it! The hill we are standing on was the burial place of a Roman Governor. Bottom right the “Old” City, called the Plaka. The Acropolis Museum was the best Museum we have seen in 6 months of travel – absolutely gorgeous – full of 4th century BC sculptures by Phidias, Michelangelo’s forerunner in antiquity.
POSTCARD 3: POROS – 'Partial view'
[Written 2nd October] At last this is the Greece worth visiting – today we sailed from the Biraeus (Athens Harbour) and visited Hydra, Poros and Aegina. Hydra is the most beautiful island we have seen after Capri, it’s water is the most beautiful clear deep blue imaginable, and it’s town and mountains stunning. Poros also attractive, Aegina wild and with a magnificent temple to Althea. Many French people – so many that French is essential! I left Australia scarcely able to speak it at all, now I am able to converse pas tries bien mois allez bien. I have been studying tenses and conjugations. Best swimming in Europe at Hydra!!!
POSTCARD 4: POROS – 'Harbour'
[Written 2nd October] Today was our first view of the Aegean - a cruise to Hydra, Poros (pictured here) and Aegina. We had coffee at the little taverna you can see in the foreground with the umbrellas. Hydra much more beautiful than this, but unfortunately no postcards. My Greek is not very proficient, although I can at least read the alphabet and distinguish some words similar to ancient Greek. My French on the other hand has improved a lot as I get constant practice with French tourists here and I have been studying it’s grammar. Monday 3rd October POSTCARD 1: ATHENS – 'Portico of the Caryatides'
[Written 3rd October] Apart from the Parthenon, Athens temple to the “White Goddess” (it was literally white - her enormous statue wing made of ivory and gold), in a much better state of preservation is the other temple of the Acropolis, the "Erechtheion” (after the deified first king of Athens). I have been reading it all up in Robert Graves “Greek Myths 1”, an extraordinarily bawdy and bloodthirsty mythology!!!
POSTCARD 2: ATHENS – 'Parthenon'
[Written 3rd October] The beautiful sculptures by the genius sculptor Phidias were in a perfect state of presentation till the Turks exploded their powder house inside the Parthenon, and even in a reasonable state afterwards they were then stolen by Lord Elgin and given to the British Museum where we saw them earlier this year – the “Elgin Marbles”. The Greek Government has made repeated but unheeded demands for their return.
POSTCARD 3: ATHENS – 'Parthenon'
[Written 3rd October] In the rubble around and beneath the Parthenon are many lovely scenes, often very peaceful places little frequented by tourists and therefore with enhanced atmosphere. Most of the work is in solid local marble. Parthenon means “virgin” incidentally since Athena was a “maiden” Goddess, unlike Aphrodite.
POSTCARD 4: ATHENS – 'Caryatides of the Erechtheion'
[Written 3rd October] Another view of the Caryatides of the Erechtheion in the soft autumn light we viewed them in. You can just make out the suburbs of Athens spread out enclosed only by a distant saucer of hills which also hem in the acid–smelling pollution, very hard to bear!!! We spend the whole time with watering eyes and burning throats. The smell at Athens is distinctive!
POSTCARD 5: ATHENS – 'View from the Acropolis'
[Written 3rd October] Another magnificent view from atop the Acropolis showing the sea of concrete boxes below, rather fascinating and very spectacular. The rocks on the Acropolis have a very wild look about them, and suit the classical ruins very well by contrast.
POSTCARD 6: ATHENS – 'Acropolis'
[Written 3rd October] On the SW face from the part of the “Agora” (market place) where intellectuals used to gather to dispute the teachings of Plato and Socrates or 400 years later, to argue with St Paul who lived directly beneath the Acropolis in a house whose foundations are still standing – the vegetation is a lot less green than shown here – all wild olives and cypresses, very sleepy and relaxed place!
POSTCARD 7: ATHENS – 'Another view of the Acropolis'
[Written 3rd October] Beneath the Acropolis stretches a short buffer zone (before one reaches the endless sea of flats) the “Plaka” or so-called “old town” although very little of it is actually old. There are however a few scattered ruins, some trees, and some pleasant enough little alleys along which are clustered all the cheap tavernas, and in which live more cats than I have ever seen in one place – literally thousands of them! Although very thin, they seem to make the best of a bad life...
POSTCARD 8: ATHENS – 'The Plaka'
[Written 3rd October] ...and are astonishingly well treated by the gruff looking hardened Greeks who live and work here. This is where we eat – fairly cheap at circa $10 for 2 mousakas, salads, wine and stuffed tomatoes. But the food always comes in 2 inches of olive oil – absolutely disgusting – and no wonder Greeks all have cholesterol problems. The olive and it’s oil was the “gift” of the Goddess Athena to Athens and Athenians won’t let you forget it.
POSTCARD 9: ATHENS – 'Cats of Athens'
[Written 3rd October] Here are the pussies who share our meals with us – they sit on the restaurant tables and chairs (these tavernas are all outdoors), catch hold of your arms and generally make sure they get fed too – all with the restauranter’s permission!!! However we have to admit that their manners are generally beyond reproach. They sit very patiently.
POSTCARD 10: ATHENS – 'Acropolis by night'
[Written 3rd October] View from the Plaka at night, not far from where we eat. Very lovely at night. The ancient “theatre” of Dionysus is in the foreground. Our hotel is on the other side. PS B now 4 months and going well. Could not get vaccinations here as planned because hospital was too primitive – also no English spoken - incredibly. Tuesday 4th October POSTCARD 1: DELPHI – 'The Temple of Apollo 4th century BC'
[Written 4th October] Some 4,000 years ago a crack in the earth’s crust caused a gaping well to appear on this site, from which a volcanic and sulphurous fumes issued. For centuries a matriarchal female priesthood held sway here, until the coming of the patriarchal Dorians with their God Apollo. The oracle of Mother Earth was a mad woman who would stand over the gap, breathing in it’s poisonous vapours, the Priests of Apollo would then “interpret” the bubble. The gap closed again after an earthquake circa 3rd or 4th Century AD. B was sick today, so could not visit this site, 180 km west of Athens. Set in very beautiful mountains some 3,000 m in height!!! POSTCARD 2: DELPHI – 'Apollo's Temple'
[Written 4th October] This shows the beautiful setting of Apollo’s Temple. A much better preserved and more beautiful temple to Athena is some 300–400 yards below of which I have taken several slides. We will sure need a projector by the time we get back!!! In the past we have always borrowed someone else’s. You would have enjoyed this! POSTCARD 3: MYKONOS - 'Harbour' [Written 4th October] This is a good shot of Mykonos, where we arrived today, because it shows first the beautiful Indian summer light of the lingering Greek autumn, and the typical town houses and lime – whitewashed buildings of the port area. There is no “old town” in Mykonos – it all looks pretty much like this – very picturesque and delightfully relaxing after Athens!!! POSTCARD 4: MYKONOS - 'Harbour at dusk' [Written 4th October] The town of Mykonos at evening just after sunset – a glorious colour. Our “villa” is our best place since Le Choiseul, but far cheaper and in a very isolated part of the island on a gorgeous beach far from tourists. A regular bus service connects with the town pictured – although the entire island is beautiful. POSTCARD 5: MYKONOS - 'Playing cards' [Written 4th October] All of Mykonos is old – there is nothing modern or brash or out of place. The pace is extremely slow and relaxing, the water that lovely turquoise and very clear and nice. The favourite pastime of Greek’s here is backgammon, not cards (in Yugoslavia it was of course chess). They are a crusty, testy lot, but full of surprising warmth if approached with easy caution – reserved like the British, but passionate like the Italians. POSTCARD 6: MYKONOS - 'Island harmony'
[Written 4th October] Modesty Blasé!!! Remember Dirk Bogarde with his multi–coloured drinks? Well this is the place! The architecture here combines simplicity and humility with the most outstanding designs and proportions – faultless. The buildings blend in perfectly to the rather desolate mountain scenery and the endless glistening sea. This is just what our “villa” at Kalafatis is like. POSTCARD 7: MYKONOS - 'Greek peasants'
[Written 4th October] On our second day we rented a car and saw many scenes like this one, this is just what the place is like – as though time stopped still 2,000 years ago. It is extremely pleasant, though no doubt hard work, even if the pace is slow!!! In winter they get quite a few snow storms! POSTCARD 8: MYKONOS - 'Greek church'
[Written 4th October] These churches are literally all over the island – every 500 yards or so. They give the villages an enhanced interest to the eye which, whilst not lacking without them, would be considerably flatter. The dome is the most representative architectural feature of chapels on Mykonos. POSTCARD 9: MYKONOS - 'Cheeky'
[Written 4th October] We were looking for a good postcard of a donkey (not a nudist) with caskets – there are so many donkeys here – but we could only find this one! Still it captures the atmosphere on Mykonos quite well!!! i.e. very relaxed and down to earth Mykonos is the famous “nudists” island – most of the beaches on one side are designated for nudists. There are also two nudist colonies. POSTCARD 10: MYKONOS - 'With care and taste'
[Written 4th October] This reminded me of the book you bought for me last Christmas on “Provence” although this is very “Greek”. There is something here distinctively Mediterranean (that unites Spain, Provence, Italy, Greece and probably Turkey and Palestine!) Whatever it is, it is strikingly simple, “uncluttered”, and the atmosphere I have most enjoyed in Europe. There is plenty of it here on Mykonos!!! A bit like your kitchen and Helen’s living room. There is also something of this atmosphere though in more refined form, in the Loire Valley in France. Wednesday 5th October Thursday 6th October Friday 7th October Saturday 8th October Sunday 9th October Monday 10th October Tuesday 11th October Wednesday 12th October Thursday 13th October Friday 14th October POSTCARD: SANTORINI - 'Thira'
[Written 14th October] Despite all the shortcomings, there are some breathtakingly beautiful sights here, and some absolutely gorgeous places for swimming (away from the tourists area of course). The black volcano in the middle of the atoll we visited yesterday – utter devastation, like the aftermath of several atomic bombs only if anything were remaining! Now only two weeks till we return. Saturday 15th October POSTCARD 1: SANTORINI - 'Byzantine Church of Panaghia' [Written 15th October] We have now seen quite a bit more of Santorini, an atoll of 3 islands forming the rim of a huge underwater volcano (still active). Some of the main island cultivates vines and figs but much of it is arid and desolate. POSTCARD 2: SANTORINI - 'Partial view of Ia'
[Written 15th October] In this photo you can see how the towns perch precariously over the rim of cliffs which face inwards towards the centre of the atoll, where an island of lava has recently risen. This is the main town called “Thira” totally rebuilt in 1970. POSTCARD 3: SANTORINI - 'The port of Kammeni islet'
[Written 15th October] Here is the island of new lava, which we visited yesterday. It rises to a considerable height, parts of which are now covered by sparse grass. Most of it is quite bare, black and menacing! Thira perched up on the crater’s rim in the distance. POSTCARD 4: SANTORINI - 'The volcano'
[Written 15th October] The volcano itself, at a height of perhaps 350–400 metres. We met B’s parents on Santorini after saying goodbye to them 2 weeks ago in Dubrovnik. We say goodbye to them again tomorrow! They were very sorry that you couldn’t come too. Bs mother had a lot of trouble getting up here, but we managed to get her most of the way up! POSTCARD 5: SANTORINI - 'Kamari Beach'
[Written 15th October] Santorini is a powder keg ready to explode – 5 earthquakes that have caused countless deaths this century alone. A 200 metre tidal wave destroyed it in ancient times. Perhaps for these reasons, the locals are the detritus of Greece - foul people living in a foul place. Our hotel pretended not to have a reservation and tried to get us to pay twice. And they are very cruel to animals and treat people not much better. Notice the black volcanic sand on our beach. POSTCARD 6: SANTORINI - 'Santorini magic'
[Written 15th October] I am quite ashamed of the first two cards I sent which were full of complaints – it is much easier to notice rudeness and ugliness and cruelty than quiet courtesy and unassuming kindness. Plenty of both extremes I can tell you!!! There is much beauty here, like this, but not in touristy “beach resorts” like Kamas – though it does have its charms too. A little bit cool at this time of year however. POSTCARD 7: SANTORINI - 'Aerial view of Santorini'
[Written 15th October] This one shows the absolutely enormous girth of the crater – almost “lunar” proportions!!! Once more the main town of Thira is in the foreground to the left. The water facing inwards is much warmer, clearer and calmer than the almost oceanic water outside the rim at Kamas dividing line between the Aegean and the Sea of Crete. POSTCARD 8: SANTORINI - 'Thirassa'
[Written 15th October] The boat trip to the volcanic central island also included a stopover for 2 hours at the second island “Thirassia” which is extremely beautiful. The town here shown is perched high above crystal clear warm waters where I went for one of my best swims in Europe, reached by donkey ride up a very precipitous cliff-face. B’s mother walked up – she’s pretty tough!!! (and scared of donkeys although she likes them). POSTCARD 9: SANTORINI - 'Thirassian house'
[Written 15th October] The houses of Thirassia are very lovely. Again, millions of cats. At lunch we gave half our meal to them because they looked so hungry. (There were perhaps twenty of them at our table in the restaurant!!!) The best Greek architecture is full of simple curves. It is an extremely ancient style, back to prehistoric housing on the Anatolia plateau of Turkey (4,500BC). POSTCARD 10: SANTORINI - 'Villa' [Written 15th October] A lovely example of what I mean. The Greeks are fond of improvisation. It looks best when the sea is in the backdrop. Did you know that the Greek Islands were a French duchy in the middle ages before passing successively to Venice, then Turkey? I didn’t know that! POSTCARD 11: SANTORINI - 'Whitewashed stairs'
[Written 15th October] Here you can see the distant rim of the encircling “caldera” of islands making up the tip of the volcano. Many Santorian people have blonde hair, incidentally, which is even more common, they say, in Crete (not far away). Barring earthquakes and tidal waves we should be in Cairo tomorrow, which we are looking forward to very much. Sunday 16th October EGYPT Monday 17th October POSTCARD: CAIRO – 'Mosque el Rifai'
[Written 17th
October]
This is a very accurate depiction of Cairo, although it fails
to mention the old bazaar quarter, which is still like
something out of Arabian nights. On the whole this is a
fascinating and pleasant place – people are generally very
polite and obliging, and the mosques, churches and ancient
temples are among the most beautiful sights of our seven
months. Islam of the “Sunni” variety (as opposed to barbaric
“Shi-ite”) is a rather more sophisticated and civilised way of
life than I had previously imagined. The Coptic Churches here
are also as magnificent as most European
cathedrals! Tuesday 18th October POSTCARD 1: CAIRO – 'The sphinx and the pyramids'
[Written 18th October] Thank you very much for your letter received today. Yesterday we made the obligatory pilgrimage to the pyramids at Gizah, very close to Cairo (really a suburb). They are enormous but the Sphinx is tiny and covered in scaffolding falling literally to bits!!! The City comes right up to the pyramids, with skyscrapers visible quite close. However, from the other side is the beautiful “Western Desert”, and plenty of romance. POSTCARD 2: CAIRO – 'The Sphinx of Sakkara'
[Written 18th October] We both got on camels, but did not trust the Arab drivers who regularly take unwilling tourists out into the desert to extort money. We think this Sphinx was much nicer than the one in the desert. It is quite close to the pyramids also, in the Giza Oasis just outside Cairo. The desert is unbelievably beautiful and so are Arabic clothes! You would love this although there are many, many discomforts!!! Wednesday 19th October Thursday 20th October Friday 21st October POSTCARD 1: LUXOR – 'General view of the Nile at Aswan'
[Written 21st October] Probably the best way to go down the Nile is on one of these “feluccas” of which we have seen many, although we are on a “Death on the Nile” type cruiser – modern but with some nice old-fashioned touches. I have been very sick indeed, almost as bad as Oslo (not quite), feeling like death warmed up. Today thank God I feel up to touring again, but this itinerary is a bit gruelling (a 5am start tomorrow morning, for example). The Nile is more beautiful than we had... POSTCARD 2: LUXOR – 'Beautiful view of the Nile at Aswan' [Written 21st October] ...expected, with greenhouses of datepalms and sugar cane on either side, alternating with patches of the most barren, desolate desert conceivable. The dividing line is quite startling – where the desert starts it doesn’t stop! Everything goes into the Nile, and everything comes out of it. Sewerage goes in, our tea the following morning comes out. No wonder every dinner table has two or three vacant places after only 2 days travel. POSTCARD 3: LUXOR – 'General view of the Temple at Karnak'
[Written 21st October] I recovered after eating the most delicious pomegranate I have ever tasted, and am sure it had something to do with my feeling better. I was well enough this morning to go with B to see this magnificent temple at Karnak, where Akhenaton and Nefertiti lived beside a lake and built one of the world’s first public botanical gardens and public zoos. The lake is still there, now reflecting the silhouettes of these lovely ruins, much more extensive than shown here. POSTCARD 4: KARNAK – 'The famous sphinx avenue at Amon Temple' [Written 21st October] More of the Karnak ruins, which were magnificent. Some of the statues are so noble and serene that many hours, not just 15 minutes, could be spent in the company of each. To say that the Egyptians or the Pharaohs were just obsessed with death is utter rubbish. However Karnak is one of the most civilised places on earth, representing one of earth’s more civilized epochs, that of Akhenaton. Saturday 22nd October Sunday 23rd October Monday 24th October Tuesday 25th October Wednesday 26th October Thursday 27th October Friday 28th October Saturday 29th October Sunday 30th October |
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