| Madam Zebra |
|
|
|
|
September 1988
Autumn in Europe & Spring in Australia Thursday 1st September Friday 2nd September POSTCARD 1: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘Les Moutons et la façade Sud Oust’
[Written 2nd September] This is rather fantastic even though it is heavily touristed – about 2.5 million visitors per year! No sign of sheep – just lots of buses and the most incredibly appalling weather imaginable – plenty of thunder!! The most beautiful and strangely the least visited part is the actual abbey, itself way up on top of the cape. It is quite a climb, the Mont really is a mountain, and the abbey is of extraordinary size. The sheep are called “salt lambs” and are grazed on a kind of seaweed at low tide, poor things. You are looking at a part of the English Channel!!! No wonder it is cold. POSTCARD 2: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘Merveille de l'Occident’
[Written 2nd September] The incoming and outgoing tides are phenomenal, the former travelling at the speed of a galloping horse. The wind is also phenomenal – talk about the “Tower of London” being bad, here you literally can’t get away from draughts! It is worth putting up with them however to visit the abbey, an unusual melange from 8th century to 19th century with beautiful Norman High Gothic domination, some of the finest flying buttresses and gothic arches we have seen, and the nicest dining hall! POSTCARD 3: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘The dining hall'
[Written 2nd September] This is not the dining hall we fell in love with, but the abbots dining hall here is also very attractive, with a most unusual roof that reminded us of the Akhershus in Norway. The other Dining Hall is richly Norman, with enormous fireplaces, lovely pillars and arches, superb flying buttresses and lovely warm proportions. No postcard of it unfortunately! POSTCARD 4: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘The romane nave of the abbey' [Written 2nd September] As you can see it really is one of the finest of all church buildings in Europe – extremely beautiful and undamaged. Our “gourmet” hotel is pretty ghastly, the food is appallingly underdone and the atmosphere repulsively bourgeois. We look forward to Paris again – you can smell England too easily from here. Have you got our address in Paris? Paris pouring with rain again as I write! Autumn is well and truly entrenched, some trees have lost ALL their leaves!!! Saturday 3rd September Sunday 4th September Monday 5th September Tuesday 6th September Wednesday 7th September POSTCARD 1: PARIS – 'Cathedral Notre-Dame'
[Written 7th September] This devil has obviously just played a frustrating game of chess – he is perched on top of the west tower of Notre Dame where we visited him today – I think you have him on the cover of one of your chess books? We have just finished our very interesting, rewarding but exhausting tour of France, leave for Geneve on Friday, then Venice. POSTCARD 2: PARIS – 'Paris by night. The Moulin Rouge'
[Written 7th September] Some more shots of Paris. This is only one aspect of Pigalle, the least attractive really. When we were there unfortunately it was cold and wet and humid, then steaming hot, and I had both an infected foot and bronchitis, so we did not see as much as I would have liked of the lovely old Jewish quarter with its magnificent apartments that surrounds Pigalle to the south, a far cry from this seedy place that is only nice lit up in a postcard. The two sides of the area are only a stones throw from each other, heaven and hell mixed up! POSTCARD 3: PARIS – 'Paris by night. Forum des Halles'
[Written 7th September] Another night shot of something which looks better at night than it does in full daylight. The "Pompidou Centre” or "Beauborg" is in a bad position, and replaces a very interesting old area which had a lot of character. However, it is not all bad – architecturally it has some fascination, especially at night as you can see here. The lines are too stark for me however, and it is too enormous. The other good thing about it is that it houses the most beautiful collection of modern painting and sculpture imaginable, in a neutral and “daylit" setting allowing both space and light for appreciating work. For all that, you would probably hate it! POSTCARD 4 : PARIS – 'Paris at twilight. General view from Alexandre III bridge' [Written 7th September] Another evening shot – “crepuscule” means twilight. We are just beginning to get nice twilights again – beautiful light isn’t it! I adore these lamp-posts, which I hadn’t realized were so widespread. POSTCARD 5: PARIS – 'The Conciergerie' [Written 7th September] These shots are fantastic – they capture just the atmosphere, walking to the Ile de la Cite around sunset in Autumn. You really don’t need a camera. Astonishingly fewer tourists now! Those that linger in Autumn seem a bit less coarse than those who waft through in summer and spring. It would be nice to spend another autumn here, but that would be completely unaffordable, even if fruit and vegetables are cheap! POSTCARD 6: PARIS – 'La Place de Furstenberg'
[Written 7th September] Typical left bank apartments – very ample compared with the lavishly decorated right bank (even our block in the poorer Marais east-side area has magnificently ornate streets and buildings). However the southside apartments do have a certain attractiveness, rather like the best of Kings Cross' old apartments perhaps. The photograph captures a certain atmosphere and the golden autumn light. B goes to see Dr Weiss in Geneva on Friday so we leave Paris one day early unfortunately then on to Venice as per itinerary. Thursday 8th September Friday 9th September Saturday 10th September SWITZERLAND Sunday 11th September ITALY Monday 12th September POSTCARD 1: VENICE – 'St Marks Bay'
[Written 12th September] This is the most beautiful place in Europe, without any doubt whatsoever! It is flawless beauty. It is also extraordinarily easy to “float along" here, the pace is dreamlike and very slow and friendly. If you love water, then you adore Venice. And the Italian language, food and history are added delicacies. The most beautiful buildings in the world, but have to be seen first hand to be appreciated! POSTCARD 2: VENICE – ' Canonica canal'
[Written 12th September] A typical shot of any street in Venice, a city in which every building is a palazzo. This is a very friendly, relaxed and beautiful place which you would enjoy very much, and which is undoubtedly our “favourite” (if it is possible to have a favourite) place in Europe. Every street is a canal – only the alleyways are fondamenta – if you lived here you float to work! Tuesday 13th September POSTCARD 1: VENICE – ' The magic of Venice'
[Written 13th September] Venice the second time round is well summed up in this card – languid Indian summer has replaced the electric humidity and thunderstorms of late Spring – early Summer. The light is less intense than in June and more hazy and very golden. Far more tourists this time, but they are not a bother in this lovely place – probably the loveliest place in the world. POSTCARD 2: VENICE – ' The Island of S.Giorgio'
[Written 13th September] The sea is about 3” below the walking level at the arcades at high tide in Venice, and standing near the sea at this time in bad weather is an awe-inspiring experience! Nothing more romantic could exist than Venice. There is nothing ugly here – nothing. It is Helen’s dream come true. Tell her to go there – it is remarkably cheap to stay in a palazzo here !!! ($15 incl breakfast!!!) Wednesday 14th September CROATIA Thursday 15th September SLOVENIA Friday 16th September CROATIA POSTCARD 1: BLED
[Written 16th September] We arrived in Opatija after a very intricate and complicated set of transport manoeuvres and several close train changes. One passenger had his guitar confiscated, but generally things went much more smoothly than we expected. Met B's parents at cool but subtropical Opatija in thunderstorms and drove to Bled in magnificent Slovenia. POSTCARD 2: BLED [Written 16th September] After going to see the caves of Postojna in the Pivka Valley (snow on all the peaks) by underground railway, we drove to Nova Corica, then tried the pass through NW Slovenia to Bled, but found it closed due to snow. The peaks here are all approx some slightly higher than Mt Kosciusko! And we only have an ordinary car. B’s driving is much better than mine. Saturday 17th September Sunday 18th September POSTCARD: PETROVA GORA – 'Central Partizan Hospital'
[Written 24th September] Not far from Karlovac in this forest of elms (untypical – most of the forest is lush with oaks, walnuts, hazels and chestnuts) was this place where B’s dad spent a while recovering from typhoid in 1943. There were no houses then, only hammocks strung between trees and underground bunkers. Monday 19th September Tuesday 20th September POSTCARD 1: ZADAR – 'St Donat’s church' [on Roman foundations!]
[Written 20th September] Dalmatia is absolutely magnificent! The best scenery in Europe is in Yugoslavia – unspoiled, awesome. Incredibly cheap – unbelievably so (av. $10 per room per night!) Zagreb very beautiful old city, which took me by surprise! Karlovac also beautiful area with very wild lovely forests. Meals also outstandingly good – ravishing food here, and averaging $2-$3 each meal. POSTCARD 2: ZADAR
[Written 20th September] After Karlovac where we stayed with B’s cousins, we saw the Plitvica Lakes – like Tolkien's Misty Mountains – the most lovely National Park we have been in (except perhaps for Binna Burra!) Then took a wild road through deserted country between Gothic “Hrvatska” Croatia and Zadar on the barren but awesome coast crossing the most incredible mountains I’ve ever encountered and the most hair raising cliff top ride in our car! The “Velobit” coastal mountain range. Everyone biting their nails except B (the driver)! Wednesday 21st September BOSNIA & HERZOGOVINA POSTCARD 1: MOSTAR – 'Stari most' [Old bridge at night]
[Written 21st September] We wouldn’t have received any of your letters if you sent any because we stayed in Zadar and Makarska and with relatives. After smoggy but spectacular Split, we spent the night at gorgeous Makarska – lovely swimming – and then drove through 50 km of swamp and desert to Mostar in Moslem Hercegovina before continuing even more Islamic Sarajevo – a hole of a place! POSTCARD 2: MOSTAR – 'Stari most' [A different view of the bridge]
[Written 21st September] At Mostar we visited a beautiful mosque and learned that an earthquake hit the town only 20 hours before our visit!!! Gorgeous place and very beautiful river. Picknicked beside it in a deserted spot – most of Yugoslavia is deserted which is why it is so beautiful, and what changes people have made are generally not too ugly – except in horrible Sarajevo!!! Thursday 22nd September CROATIA POSTCARD 1: DUBROVNIK – 'Aerial view'
[Written 22nd September] A long but beautiful drive through forests turning into their Autumn colours – in places Autumn is well advanced, especially in Northern Bosnia (cold, wet and foggy like Melbourne!) The most beautiful mountains imaginable in south-eastern Bosnia towards Folce, clothed in dark impenetrable forests at the looming edges of the Crna Gora (Black Mountains). Then warmer and warmer as we edged towards the coast. POSTCARD 2: DUBROVNIK – 'Another aerial view'
[Written 22nd September] Well here we are at last in Dubrovnik!!! B’s namesake (after Thea at Ellis Beach). And it is absolutely beautiful, a gorgeous and unspoiled tropical “Venice” with a lazy and friendly atmosphere and stunning mountains looming behind its azure waters. This was our first view of it at dusk. POSTCARD 3: DUBROVNIK – 'View across the rooftops'
[Written 22nd September] This is approximately our view from our window, albeit with a few telegraph poles thrown in! Again very cheap and friendly accommodation and the proprietor getting on famously with B’s mum and dad. Our favourite spot in Yugoslavia!!! Friday 23rd September POSTCARD 1: DUBROVNIK – 'A view across the water towards the town'
[Written 23rd September] The vegetation here is very lush in places and the general effect is not unlike Sydney – like Bellevue Hill in fact, though more tropical of course. Very summery temps, 30 degrees C in the shade all day today, and quite a jolt after Slovenia and Bosnia (12 degrees in Sarajevo). POSTCARD 2: DUBROVNIK – 'Stradun'
[Written 23rd September] Isn’t this a gorgeous place! If you had to choose somewhere with all plusses and virtually no minuses to live this would be it in Europe. Dubrovnik is absolutely stunning. You will have to go to Yugoslavia when Dad retires – it is the cheapest holiday destination in Europe and we can now give you some addresses. POSTCARD 3: DUBROVNIK – 'Old Cathedral'
[Written 23rd September] The centre of Dubrovnik is this square in the “Stari Grad” or old town. My speech here is limited to “molim” (please), “hvala leppo” (thanks very much), “dobar dan” (good day), “jako fino” (very nice), and “dovendenja” (goodbye), but I am beginning to pick up a few other expressions. We are having a wonderful time! Saturday 24th September
Sunday 25th September GREECE Monday 26th September POSTCARD 1: CORFU – 'Hermones Hotel'
[Written 26th September] Thanks for your letter (11/9). This hotel is very quiet, but looks awful on the outside. What greedy developers are allowed to do to beautiful places – typical Thomas Cook choice I am afraid. Corfu has a population of 500,000 of which only 100,000 are Greek – the remainder are tourists!!!
POSTCARD 2: CORFU
[Written 26th September] Most of the tourists are English – of a fairly pleasant variety for the most part, and not too bourgeois, surprisingly. There are also Germans and a lot of horribles from the Americas, especially Canada. This card shows what we hope to see on Corfu, what we did see in Yugoslavia, and why we wish we were back in Dubrovnik! Hopefully this initial feeling of deflation will subside! Gorgeous beach however! Tuesday 27th September Wednesday 28th September Thursday 29th September POSTCARD 1: CORFU - 'Paleocastrizza'
[Written 29th September] The worst beach here, but the photograph amazingly cuts out all the concrete boxes which house the tourists. This is really the most disappointing and boring place we have ever been in our lives. There are no ruins to visit and the landscape is littered with garbage, powerlines and the most horrible developments imaginable. We have seen nothing at all to merit a visit. It is an embarrassment to be here!!!
POSTCARD 2: CORFU
[Written 29th September] Though not much, there is still some “Greek” Corfu left – mostly a very pleasing hybrid between Greek and French/British (esp. British) colonial. The Old Town is very pleasant, but extremely crowded with British tourists, hardly a Greek in the place!!! However this is not so bad as you might expect, since their obvious love of the place and the enthusiasm is rather charming. Totally disorganised here by a “general strike”, hope we will get away alright!!
POSTCARD 3: CORFU - 'Old Town at night'
[Written 29th September] A nice corner of the “British” part of Corfu, which was for approx 150 years (?) a British colony, and in front of this building is in fact the Corfu “cricket ground”, a game still played by Greek Cartiots, no doubt to the amusement of other Greeks! We did incidentally, see eventually many people riding donkeys through Cypress – and – olive growers. Generally however one sees only other tourists here, although the British ones are highly entertaining and generally quite eccentric!!!
POSTCARD 4: CORFU - 'Street musicians'
[Written 29th September] Being Greek is a very serious business to judge by the expressions one sees on almost every face here (in Corfu anyway). The woman in the window is smiling – a sight we have not yet encountered in real life. However although pleasures are also taken seriously, there is no doubt that Greek people do get great pleasure from their music, which we luckily love. We’re hoping to hear some live music some day soon. Incidentally – Australian – style cicadas singing loudly here, a lovely sound! Friday 30th September Next: October 1988 |
© Copyright 2008-2009, Madam Zebra. All
rights reserved.