September 1988

Autumn in Europe
& Spring in Australia
Thursday 1st September
Nantes to MONT ST. MICHEL - Day 1
Friday 2nd September
MONT ST. MICHEL - Day 2
POSTCARD 1: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘Les
Moutons et la façade Sud Oust’

[Written 2nd September] This is
rather fantastic even though it is heavily touristed – about 2.5 million visitors per year! No sign of sheep –
just lots of buses and the most incredibly appalling weather imaginable – plenty of thunder!! The most beautiful
and strangely the least visited part is the actual abbey, itself way up on top of the cape. It is quite a climb,
the Mont really is a mountain, and the abbey is of extraordinary size. The sheep are called “salt lambs” and are
grazed on a kind of seaweed at low tide, poor things. You are looking at a part of the English Channel!!! No
wonder it is cold.
POSTCARD 2: MONT ST MICHEL –
‘Merveille de l'Occident’

[Written 2nd
September] The incoming and outgoing tides are phenomenal, the former travelling at the speed of a
galloping horse. The wind is also phenomenal – talk about the “Tower of London” being bad, here you literally
can’t get away from draughts! It is worth putting up with them however to visit the abbey, an unusual melange
from 8th century to 19th century with beautiful Norman High Gothic domination, some of the finest flying
buttresses and gothic arches we have seen, and the nicest dining hall!
POSTCARD 3: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘The
dining hall'

[Written 2nd
September] This is not the dining hall we fell in love with, but the abbots dining hall here is also
very attractive, with a most unusual roof that reminded us of the Akhershus in Norway. The other Dining Hall is richly Norman, with enormous fireplaces,
lovely pillars and arches, superb flying buttresses and lovely warm proportions. No postcard of it
unfortunately!
POSTCARD 4: MONT ST MICHEL – ‘The
romane nave of the abbey'

[Written 2nd
September] As you can see it really is one of the finest of all church buildings in Europe –
extremely beautiful and undamaged. Our “gourmet” hotel is pretty ghastly, the food is appallingly underdone and
the atmosphere repulsively bourgeois. We look forward to Paris again – you can smell England too easily from
here. Have you got our address in Paris? Paris pouring with rain again as I write! Autumn is well and truly
entrenched, some trees have lost ALL their leaves!!!
Saturday 3rd September
Mont St. Michel to PARIS - Day 1
Sunday 4th September
PARIS - Day 2
Monday 5th September
PARIS - Day 3
Tuesday 6th September
PARIS - Day 4
Wednesday 7th September
PARIS - Day 5
POSTCARD 1:
PARIS
– 'Cathedral
Notre-Dame'

[Written 7th
September] This devil has obviously just played a frustrating game of chess – he is perched on top
of the west tower of Notre Dame where we visited him today – I think you have him on the cover of one of your
chess books? We have just finished our very interesting, rewarding but exhausting tour of France, leave for
Geneve on Friday, then Venice.
POSTCARD 2:
PARIS
– 'Paris by night.
The Moulin Rouge'

[Written 7th
September] Some more shots of Paris. This is only one aspect of Pigalle, the least attractive
really. When we were there unfortunately it was cold and wet and humid, then steaming hot, and I had both an
infected foot and bronchitis, so we did not see as much as I would have liked of the lovely old Jewish quarter
with its magnificent apartments that surrounds Pigalle to the south, a far cry from this seedy
place that is only nice lit up in a postcard. The two sides of the area are only a stones throw from each other,
heaven and hell mixed up!
POSTCARD 3:
PARIS
– 'Paris by night.
Forum des Halles'

[Written 7th
September] Another night shot of something which looks better at night than it does in
full daylight. The "Pompidou Centre” or "Beauborg" is in a bad position, and
replaces a very interesting old area which had a lot of character. However, it is not all bad – architecturally
it has some fascination, especially at night as you can see here. The lines are too stark for me however, and it
is too enormous. The other good thing about it is that it houses the most beautiful collection of modern
painting and sculpture imaginable, in a neutral and “daylit"
setting allowing both space and light for appreciating work. For all that, you would probably hate
it!
POSTCARD 4 :
PARIS
– 'Paris at twilight.
General view from Alexandre III bridge'

[Written 7th
September] Another evening shot – “crepuscule” means twilight. We are just beginning to
get nice twilights again – beautiful light isn’t it! I adore these lamp-posts, which I hadn’t realized were so
widespread.
POSTCARD 5:
PARIS
– 'The
Conciergerie'

[Written 7th
September] These shots are fantastic – they capture just the atmosphere, walking to the
Ile de la Cite around sunset in Autumn. You really don’t need a camera. Astonishingly fewer tourists now! Those
that linger in Autumn seem a bit less coarse than those who waft through in summer and spring. It would be nice
to spend another autumn here, but that would be completely unaffordable, even if fruit and vegetables are
cheap!
POSTCARD 6:
PARIS
– 'La Place de
Furstenberg'

[Written 7th
September] Typical left bank apartments – very ample compared with the lavishly
decorated right bank (even our block in the poorer Marais east-side area has magnificently ornate streets and
buildings). However the southside apartments do have a certain attractiveness, rather like the best of Kings
Cross' old apartments perhaps. The photograph captures a certain atmosphere and the golden autumn light. B goes
to see Dr Weiss in Geneva on Friday so we leave Paris one day early unfortunately then on to Venice as per
itinerary.
Thursday 8th September
PARIS - Day 6
Friday 9th September
PARIS - Day 7
Saturday 10th September
Paris to GENEVA
SWITZERLAND
Sunday 11th September
Geneva to VENICE - Day 1
ITALY
Monday 12th September
VENICE - Day 2
POSTCARD 1: VENICE –
'St Marks
Bay'

[Written 12th
September] This is the most beautiful place in Europe, without any doubt whatsoever! It
is flawless beauty. It is also extraordinarily easy to “float along" here, the pace is dreamlike and very slow
and friendly. If you love water, then you adore Venice. And the Italian language, food and history are added
delicacies. The most beautiful buildings in the world, but have to be seen first hand to be
appreciated!
POSTCARD 2: VENICE –
' Canonica
canal'

[Written 12th
September] A typical shot of any street in Venice, a city in which every
building is a palazzo. This is a very friendly, relaxed and beautiful place which you would enjoy very much, and
which is undoubtedly our “favourite” (if it is possible to have a favourite) place in Europe. Every street is a
canal – only the alleyways are fondamenta – if you lived here you float to work!
Tuesday 13th September
Venice to OPATIJA - Day 1
POSTCARD 1: VENICE –
' The magic
of Venice'

[Written 13th
September] Venice the second time round is well summed
up in this card – languid Indian summer has replaced the electric humidity and thunderstorms of late Spring –
early Summer. The light is less intense than in June and more hazy and very golden. Far more tourists this time,
but they are not a bother in this lovely place – probably the loveliest place in the world.
POSTCARD 2: VENICE –
' The Island of
S.Giorgio'

[Written 13th
September] The sea is about 3” below the walking level at the arcades at
high tide in Venice, and standing near the sea at this time in bad weather is an awe-inspiring experience!
Nothing more romantic could exist than Venice. There is nothing ugly here – nothing. It is Helen’s dream come
true. Tell her to go there – it is remarkably cheap to stay in a palazzo here !!! ($15 incl
breakfast!!!)
Wednesday 14th September
OPATIJA - Day 2
CROATIA
Thursday 15th September
Opatija to BOHINJA BISTRICA
SLOVENIA
Friday 16th September
Bohinja Bistrica to ZAGREB - Day 1
CROATIA
POSTCARD
1: BLED

[Written 16th
September] We arrived in Opatija after a very intricate and complicated set
of transport manoeuvres and several close train changes. One passenger had his guitar confiscated, but generally
things went much more smoothly than we expected. Met B's parents at cool but subtropical Opatija in
thunderstorms and drove to Bled in magnificent Slovenia.
POSTCARD
2: BLED

[Written 16th
September] After going to see the caves of Postojna in the Pivka Valley
(snow on all the peaks) by underground railway, we drove to Nova Corica, then tried the pass through NW Slovenia
to Bled, but found it closed due to snow. The peaks here are all approx some slightly higher than Mt Kosciusko!
And we only have an ordinary car. B’s driving is much better than mine.
Saturday 17th September
ZAGREB - Day 2
Sunday 18th September
Zagreb to KARLOVAC
Petrova Gora War Memorial
Petrova Gora underground hospital
Brenda coming out of an underground hospital bunker
War Memorial and cemetery at Petrova Gora
Partizanska Bolnica
Partisans Hospital at Petrova Gora
Choose an image to begin
POSTCARD: PETROVA GORA – 'Central Partizan
Hospital'

[Written 24th
September] Not far from Karlovac in this forest of elms (untypical – most of the
forest is lush with oaks, walnuts, hazels and chestnuts) was this place where B’s dad spent a while recovering
from typhoid in 1943. There were no houses then, only hammocks strung between trees and underground
bunkers.
Monday 19th September
Karlovac to ZADAR
Tuesday 20th September
Zadar to MAKARSKA
POSTCARD
1: ZADAR – 'St Donat’s church' [on Roman
foundations!]

[Written 20th
September] Dalmatia is absolutely magnificent! The best
scenery in Europe is in Yugoslavia – unspoiled, awesome. Incredibly cheap – unbelievably so (av. $10 per room
per night!) Zagreb very beautiful old city, which took me by surprise! Karlovac also beautiful area with very
wild lovely forests. Meals also outstandingly good – ravishing food here, and averaging $2-$3 each
meal.
POSTCARD
2: ZADAR

[Written 20th
September] After Karlovac where we stayed with B’s cousins, we saw the
Plitvica Lakes – like Tolkien's Misty Mountains – the most lovely National Park we have been
in (except perhaps for Binna Burra!) Then took a wild road through deserted country between Gothic
“Hrvatska” Croatia and Zadar on the barren but
awesome coast crossing the most incredible mountains I’ve ever encountered and the most hair raising cliff
top ride in our car! The “Velobit” coastal mountain range. Everyone biting their nails except B (the
driver)!
Wednesday 21st September
Makarska to SARAJEVO
BOSNIA & HERZOGOVINA
POSTCARD 1: MOSTAR – 'Stari most'
[Old bridge at night]

[Written 21st
September] We wouldn’t have received any of your letters if you sent any
because we stayed in Zadar and Makarska and with
relatives. After smoggy but spectacular Split, we spent the night at gorgeous Makarska – lovely swimming – and then drove through 50 km of
swamp and desert to Mostar in Moslem Hercegovina before continuing even more Islamic Sarajevo – a hole of a
place!
POSTCARD 2: MOSTAR – 'Stari most'
[A different view of the bridge]

[Written 21st
September] At Mostar we visited a beautiful mosque and
learned that an earthquake hit the town only 20 hours before
our visit!!! Gorgeous place and very beautiful river. Picknicked beside it in a deserted spot – most
of Yugoslavia is deserted which is why it is so beautiful, and what changes people have made are generally not
too ugly – except in horrible Sarajevo!!!
Thursday 22nd September
Sarajevo to DUBROVNIK - Day 1
CROATIA
POSTCARD 1: DUBROVNIK – 'Aerial
view'

[Written 22nd
September] A long but beautiful drive through forests
turning into their Autumn colours – in places Autumn is well advanced, especially in Northern Bosnia (cold, wet
and foggy like Melbourne!) The most beautiful mountains imaginable in south-eastern Bosnia towards Folce,
clothed in dark impenetrable forests at the looming edges of the Crna Gora (Black Mountains). Then warmer and warmer as we edged towards the
coast.
POSTCARD 2: DUBROVNIK – 'Another
aerial view'

[Written 22nd
September] Well here we are at last in
Dubrovnik!!! B’s namesake (after Thea at Ellis Beach). And it is absolutely beautiful, a gorgeous and unspoiled
tropical “Venice” with a lazy and friendly atmosphere and stunning mountains looming behind its azure waters.
This was our first view of it at dusk.
POSTCARD 3: DUBROVNIK – 'View
across the rooftops'

[Written 22nd
September] This is approximately our view
from our window, albeit with a few telegraph poles thrown in! Again very cheap and friendly accommodation and
the proprietor getting on famously with B’s mum and dad. Our favourite spot in
Yugoslavia!!!
Friday 23rd September
DUBROVNIK - Day 2
POSTCARD 1: DUBROVNIK – 'A view
across the water towards the town'

[Written 23rd
September] The vegetation here is very lush
in places and the general effect is not unlike Sydney – like Bellevue Hill in fact, though more tropical of
course. Very summery temps, 30 degrees C in the shade all day today, and quite a jolt after Slovenia and Bosnia
(12 degrees in Sarajevo).
POSTCARD 2: DUBROVNIK –
'Stradun'
[Written 23rd
September] Isn’t this a
gorgeous place! If you had to choose somewhere with all plusses and virtually no minuses to live this would be
it in Europe. Dubrovnik is absolutely stunning. You will have to go to Yugoslavia when Dad retires – it is the
cheapest holiday destination in Europe and we can now give you some addresses.
POSTCARD 3: DUBROVNIK – 'Old
Cathedral'

[Written 23rd
September] The centre of
Dubrovnik is this square in the “Stari Grad” or old
town. My speech here is limited to “molim” (please), “hvala
leppo” (thanks very much), “dobar dan” (good
day), “jako fino” (very nice), and “dovendenja” (goodbye), but I am beginning to pick up a few other
expressions. We are having a wonderful time!
Saturday 24th September
DUBROVNIK - Day 3
Sponza Palace and the city bell tower
The large Onofrien Fountain 15th century
Dubrovnik plaza
Parting view of Dubrovnik
Choose an image to begin
Sunday 25th September
Dubrovnik to CORFU - Day 1
GREECE
Monday 26th September
CORFU - Day 2
POSTCARD 1: CORFU – 'Hermones Hotel'

[Written 26th
September] Thanks for your
letter (11/9). This hotel is very quiet, but looks awful on the outside. What greedy developers are allowed to
do to beautiful places – typical Thomas Cook choice I am afraid. Corfu has a population of 500,000 of which only
100,000 are Greek – the remainder are tourists!!!
POSTCARD 2:
CORFU

[Written 26th
September]
Most of the tourists are English – of a fairly pleasant variety for the most part, and not too bourgeois,
surprisingly. There are also Germans and a lot of horribles from the Americas, especially Canada. This card
shows what we hope to see on Corfu, what we did see in Yugoslavia, and why we wish we were back in
Dubrovnik! Hopefully this initial feeling of deflation will subside! Gorgeous beach however!
Tuesday 27th September
CORFU - Day 3
Wednesday 28th September
CORFU - Day 4
Thursday 29th September
CORFU - Day 5
POSTCARD 1: CORFU - 'Paleocastrizza'

[Written 29th
September] The
worst beach here, but the photograph amazingly cuts out all the concrete boxes which house the tourists. This is
really the most disappointing and boring place we have ever been in our lives. There are no ruins to visit and
the landscape is littered with garbage, powerlines and the most horrible developments imaginable. We have seen
nothing at all to merit a visit. It is an embarrassment to be here!!!
POSTCARD 2:
CORFU

[Written 29th
September]
Though not much, there is still some “Greek” Corfu left – mostly a very pleasing hybrid between Greek and
French/British (esp. British) colonial. The Old Town is very pleasant, but extremely crowded with British
tourists, hardly a Greek in the place!!! However this is not so bad as you might expect, since their obvious
love of the place and the enthusiasm is rather charming. Totally disorganised here by a “general strike”, hope
we will get away alright!!
POSTCARD 3: CORFU - 'Old
Town at night'

[Written 29th
September] A
nice corner of the “British” part of Corfu, which was for approx 150 years (?) a British colony, and in front of
this building is in fact the Corfu “cricket ground”, a game still played by Greek Cartiots, no doubt to the amusement of other Greeks! We did incidentally, see eventually many people
riding donkeys through Cypress – and – olive growers. Generally however one sees only other tourists here,
although the British ones are highly entertaining and generally quite eccentric!!!
POSTCARD 4: CORFU - 'Street
musicians'

[Written 29th
September]
Being Greek is a very serious business to judge by the expressions one sees on almost every face here (in Corfu
anyway). The woman in the window is smiling – a sight we have not yet encountered in real life. However although
pleasures are also taken seriously, there is no doubt that Greek people do get great pleasure from their music,
which we luckily love. We’re hoping to hear some live music some day soon. Incidentally – Australian –
style cicadas singing loudly here, a lovely sound!
Friday 30th September
Corfu to ATHENS - Day 1
Next: October 1988
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